India meets East Africa in 1-skillet curried salmon fillets

FOR centuries, the channel of ocean running between Mozambique and Madagascar provided passage and port to ships during the height of the spice trade. The results were delicious, combining local seafood and coconut with rich spice blends for seafood curries.

We borrow from that tradition — inspired by a recipe in “In Bibi’s Kitchen” by Hawa Hassan — for this simple one-skillet recipe from our book “Cook What You Have,” which draws on pantry staples to assemble easy, weeknight meals.

Instead of mackerel, we use salmon fillets and pair them with a saucy mix of vegetables simmered in coconut milk. A small measure of curry powder, a stand-in for the Somali spice blend called xawaash, flavors the dish and gives the sauce a pale golden hue.

Don’t let the sauce reach a simmer after returning the salmon to the skillet. Gentle heat — just enough to create steam — is