Tangy cherry preserves bring balance to this ancient ricotta tart

At Armando al Pantheon, a trattoria in Rome, meals often are punctuated with a slice of torta antica roma— a rustic tart inspired by the traditional Roman combination of ricotta and cherries.

It’s exceptionally light, with milky-sweet ricotta balanced by tangy, brightly hued fruit preserves. The base is a tender, buttery, almost cake-like crust, and the topping is a crumby mixture of the same composition.

Sandwiched between is a layer of jam on a bed of ricotta dotted with poppy and sesame seeds.

In this recipe from our cookbook “ Milk Street Backroads Italy,” we devised a dough that gets flavor and texture from almonds that are ground in the food processor, plus a small measure of semolina (or cornmeal). Lemon zest brings brightness, and baking powder adds a little lift and lightness.

Sour cherry jam, with its balance of sweet and sour, is best in this tart; some brands might