Dried bay leaves bring layers of flavor to Portuguese-style beef skewers

On the Portuguese island of Madeira, espetadas are made by threading chunks of beef onto fresh-cut branches of bay and cooking the skewers over the embers of a fire. The bay infuses the meat with its unique menthol notes while also releasing a heady aroma.

In this streamlined take on espatadas from our cookbook “ Milk Street 365: The All-Purpose Cookbook for Every Day of the Year,” we pulverize dried bay leaves in a spice grinder to make a seasoned salt, mix in garlic and olive oil, then use the mixture to season the meat before threading it onto metal skewers and grilling over charcoal or gas.

Though a bit unconventional, we add tomatoes to these skewers and also make a simple Madeira reduction to finish the dish. Seasoned with garlic and some of the bay salt, the glaze-like sauce bolsters the flavors of the beef.

Flat iron steak or beef