Lemony Marinade Does Double Duty For Roasted Chicken

IN the market squares of Sicily and Calabria, street vendors baste thick swordfish chops with a bright blend of lemon juice and olive oil, grilling them over smoldering coals and filling the air with an alluring mix of char and sweet.

The simple, ancient combination is called salmoriglio, and it’s the primary way fish is served in southern Italy.

At Milk Street, we knew that chicken would shine with a similar treatment — a quick soak in a lemony marinade followed by a turn on the grill or in a high-heat oven, plus a finishing splash of more sauce.

For this oven-cooked version from our book, “Milk Street Tuesday Nights, Mediterranean,” which limits recipes to 45 minutes or less, we first make a fragrant base of grated lemon zest, garlic, oregano, salt and pepper. We then use some to season bone-in chicken thighs and the rest as the foundation for