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Noodle bowls show Vietnam’s contrasting flavors

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After eating our way through Vietnam, it became clear that contrast was one of the defining features of the cuisine. Tender and crunchy. Spicy and fresh. Hot and cool. Many times all in the same dish.

Bowls of rice noodles were a perfect example; the springy noodles come topped with a combination of savory seared meat and fresh raw ingredients. For our take from our book “Milk Street Tuesday Nights,” which limits recipes to 45 minutes or less, we liked the rich, meaty flavor of sirloin tips.

After pounding the meat ½ inch thick to speed even cooking, we soaked the beef in a gingery marinade with fish sauce and a bit of brown sugar, which helps brown the meat, A topping of mint, cilantro and peanuts provided crunchy, fresh contrast.

Note that sirloin tips sometimes are sold as flap meat or faux hanger. It’s fine if tips are in

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