Textile queen Maman Creppy has died: the last of West Africa’s legendary wax cloth traders has left her mark

Nina Sylvanus

Dédé Rose Gamélé Creppy, who has died aged 89, was one of west Africa’s most influential wax cloth traders. She was the youngest, and the last living, “Nana Benz” – the legendary first generation of women cloth traders from Togo.

Wax cloth was a European adaptation of a classic Indonesian batik hand printing technique which created designs using hot wax. Areas of design were blocked out by applying hot wax over them to resist dye. 

The cloth was introduced to west Africa by Dutch and English textile manufacturers in the late 19th century. Women traders – who became experts at predicting what the market wanted – started feeding design and colour suggestions back to the manufacturers. They were integral to the cloth’s success. The Nana Benzes were particularly skilled at this.

Wax cloth became popular because its colours stood out, it could be easily tailored into stylish outfits